Buenos Aires looks and feels like any American city. High rises, chain stores, all the hustle and bustle of any big city. One can find all the conveniences, indulgences and outrageous prices of any metropolis. If I close my ears, I can easily pretend to be in the USA…but there’s something missing. Lots of parks, green areas, larger than life statues… but something’s off. It’s safe, relatively organized and people stand in line for the bus, and yet, something doesn’t feel right. I immediately sensed it and it was confirmed by my friends: it’s very white. I mean, H!tler would be proud, kind of white. As in: Oregon has more diversity than Buenos Aires. No indigenous peoples or cultures, no African Americans or other ethnicities, not even naturally curly hair can be seen or felt anywhere. All the brownish people here are sun-tanned gringos (of European descent). It’s not like there aren’t any indigenous peoples in Argentina. They’re just not in Buenos Aires. It felt a little eery and artificial.
Despite this selective breeding, I believe indigenous genes are present in a very subtle yet prominent way. Definitely not in the skin color, hair types, facial features or any cultural expression. However, curiously, the majority of people here, of all genders, have petite bodies. The typical European physique, which is more hefty and tall, is the rare exception. Not sure if it’s nutrition or genetics but it could very well be the fingerprint of indigenous genes.
With big city prices, overpopulation and competition, living in Buenos Aires is expensive and getting more so. It caters to older white tourists who think spending $20 on a mediocre sandwich is normal. And those who want to travel hundreds of miles without leaving their home. It’s mostly clean and organized yet the homeless population is visible and growing, especially after the pandemic.
Why did I spend a whole week here? Friends! Beautiful souls who opened their hearts and homes to me. We shared memorable moments exploring the city, dancing, eating delicious food, playing “Big Talk Game” and laughing a lot!
There’s also Tango: very present in all the touristy areas. Performances in the streets, restaurants, outdoor markets and wherever tourists are. It adds a festive and joyous feeling to the place. Very enjoyable!
Then there’s the best invention which is now my new addiction…
Alfajores! This heavenly dessert is like an individual size dark chocolate cake (there are ones without chocolate but, what’s the point?). It’s made of 2 soft cookies with a filling of Dulce de leche between them and covered with dark chocolate. YUMMMY! There are many variations (within the dark chocolate category which is my specialty). For example, triple cookies with 2 fillings, jams or mouse filling instead of Dulce de leche, some have nuts and seeds…etc. I had to do my research. IMHO, even the commercial ones that one can buy in any corner store or the equivalent of a 7-11 in the USA (if they have the dark chocolate ones), are excellent! Buenos Aires is not the center of artisanal Alfajores but because it’s a big city, it offers an abundance of different kinds to sample. Therefore, an excellent place to conduct my research. Happy to serve!
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Unconditional Love 